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Technical sourcebook for apparel designers /

"Learn technical and design processes and industry standards, such as ASTM and ISO, for apparel production and manufacturing practices. With more than 1,100 images and technical packages for 12 apparel products, the book explains topics like fabric selection, finding seasonal fashion trends, ga...

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Bibliographic Details
Main Authors: Lee, Jaeil (Author), Steen, Camille (Author)
Format: Book
Language:English
Published: New York : Fairchild Books, 2019.
Edition:Third edition.
Subjects:
Clothing trade.
Fashion design.
Clothing and dress.
Mode > Création.
Vêtements.
Vêtements > Industrie et commerce.
Table of Contents:
  • 1. Overview of the industry : The global apparel industry : Availability of labor ; Availability of high technology ; Worldwide collaboration of global production ; The impact of global economic and political factors
  • Ready-to-wear apparel : Categories of ready-to-wear brands
  • Merchandise segments : Price range ; Gender and age ; Product category
  • Professions in apparel product production and distribution : Influence of the specification buying process on roles ; Horizontal integration versus vertical integration ; Main professionals ; Introduction to the design department ; Designing for movies, plays and theater ; Launching a career in apparel design ; Current trends in the fashion industry ; Omni-channel retailing ; Closing of brick-and-mortar stores ; New consumerism: transparency ; Technological advancements in product development ; Sustainability to and fashion ; Wearables
  • 2. The apparel product development process and technical design : Design development : The role of designer ; The role of product line manager ; Target market ; Tools for designing ; Designing for the target market ; Basic season outline ; Concept board ; Presentations ; Line plan
  • Technical design in the design process : Developing samples ; Information on the sample tag ; Kinds of samples ; Sample lead times
  • The apparel production process : Companies selling through sales Representatives ; Companies developing products for house labels
  • 3. All about the technical package : Functions of the tech pack - Components of the tech pack : Style summary ; Front and back views ; Details view ; Points of measure for samples ; Grade rules ; Bill of materials ; Construction details ; Labels and packaging ; Fit history ; Sample evaluation comments
  • Specifications for special fabric development
  • 4. Developing technical sketches : The family of sketches for fashion design : Drawing for inspiration: personal sketches ; Drawing for presentation: fashion sketches and floats ; Drawing for specification: flats or technical sketches
  • Understanding the terminology of garments
  • Drawing conventions of technical sketches : Fonts ; Line Weights ; Drawing to scale of technical sketches (flats)
  • Drawing garments to scale, step by step : Drawing a women's tank top ; Drawing a men's long-sleeved knit shirt ; Drawing pants ; Drawing detail sketches ; Other details in drawing flats
  • 5. Technical design terms for silhouettes and design details : Garment terminology : Terminology of a shirt ; Terminology of a dress ; Terminology of a jacket ; Terminology of pants ; Terminology of hats
  • Silhouettes : Silhouette changes by waist position ; Classic dress silhouettes defined by shape ; Dress silhouettes changed by design detail ; Skirt silhouette defined by shape and design detail ; Silhouettes based on the length of the garment ; Pant silhouettes defined by shape and design detail
  • Design details : Sleeves and cuffs
  • Necklines : Shapes of necklines ; Collars
  • Pockets
  • 6. Styles, lines, and details for shape and fit : Garment shaping devices: darts and others : Darts ; Tucks ; Pleats ; Gathers ; Easing ; Elastic ; Drawcords ; Lacing ; Seam shaping
  • Designers' choice of various shaping devices
  • 7. Fabrics and cutting : Fabrics : Hand ; Yarn size ; Knits and wovens ; Woven fabric ; Fabric weight: woven fabric selection indicator ; Knits
  • Fabric layout : :Making markets ; Plaid and pattern matching ; Cutting instruction
  • Technical design aspects of cutting : Cost solution for a patch pocket ; Directional fabric ; Styles with flare ; Fabrics with large motifs ; Engineered prints ; Nap or pile ; Stripes
  • 8. Sweater design and manufacturing : History and evolution : Invention of the stocking frame
  • Weft knitting fundamentals : Stitches ; Jersey stitch (knit face and purl reverse)
  • Building sweaters commercially : Full fashioning and panel knitting ; Example of a full-fashioned sweater ; Cut-and-sew method ; Whole-garment (integral) knitting
  • Yarns : Yarn structures ; Yarn fiber content
  • Color technique : Striping ; Plating ; Single jacquard (Fair Isle) ; Double jacquard ; Ladder-back jacquard ; Intersia ; Argyle
  • The development process for sweaters : Planning ; Inspiration ; Knitdowns ; Presentation
  • Setting up the tech pack for a sweater : Sketching styles ; Examples of pattern layouts and placements
  • 9. Stitches and seams : Stitches : Types of machines ; Stitch types ; Characteristics of each stitch class
  • SPI: a quality indicator : Determining appropriate SPI ; How to count SPI ; Seam types : Basic seam types
  • Other frequently used edge finishes for seams : 3-thread overlock edges (EFd) ; Clean finished and booked seams ; Pinked seam
  • Selecting appropriate seams and edge finishes for a garment
  • The order of seaming : Armholes ; Rises ; Hems
  • Innovative seam finish methods: laser cut/welding/fusing
  • 10. Edge treatments : Hems : Blindstitched Hem (EFC) ; Clean finished hem ; Coverstitch hem ; Serge and hem (EFe) ; Faced hem (LSct-2) Shaped hems ; Band hem ; Decorative hems
  • Straps and belting : Straps ; Belting
  • Binding : Heat-cut edges
  • Facings
  • Plackets : Center front placket ; Sleeve placket ; Continuous lap placket
  • Cuffs : Elasticized cuffs ; Premade knit cuffs ; Decorative cuffs ; Band cuffs ; Outerwear cuffs
  • 11. Construction-related design details : Pockets : Technical aspects of designing a patch pocket ; Technical aspects of designing welt pockets ; Technical aspects of designing on-seam pockets ; Technical aspects of designing seam-to seam pockets
  • Reinforcement : Stitch reinforcement ; Back tack ; Bartacks ; Stitch tacks ; Topstitching
  • 12. Shape and support : Underlying fabrics : Interfacing ; Underlining ; Lining ; Interlining
  • Other supporting devices : Bust shape and support ; Hoops and crinolines ; Horsehair braid ; Collar stays ; Bra strap keeper
  • Other supportive devices: a case study of tailored garments : Fusible interfacing for tailored garments ; Narrow fabrics ; Elastic
  • 13. Fasteners : Buttons : Advantage of using buttons ; Button sizes ; Button styles ; Button shanks ; Compositions of buttons ; Button attachments ; Button placement ; Purely decorative buttons ; Buttonholes ; Loops ; Button reinforcement ; Specifying buttons
  • D-rings and toggles
  • Frog closures
  • Lacing
  • Hook and loop
  • Zippers : Common types of zippers ; Specifying zippers ; Parts of a zipper ; Sewing a zipper into a garment
  • Hooks : Sew-on hooks ; Machine-set hooks
  • Snap fasteners
  • Cordlock
  • 14. Labels and packaging : Basic rules of labeling : Brand name ; Garment size ; Country of origin ; RN or WPL number ; Fiber content ; Care labeling rule
  • Application of labels : Materials of labels ; Setting main labels ; Underwear ; Exterior identification
  • Hangtags, folding instructions, and packaging
  • 15. How to measure, size, and grade : How to measure : Setting up for measuring ; Preparation ; Steps for measuring
  • Measurement guide for XYZ Product Development, Inc. : Measurement guide for tops for XYZ Product Development, Inc. ; Points of measure for bottoms for XYZ Product Development, Inc.
  • Working with the technical package : Keeping the fit history ; Writing comments ; Developing knock-offs
  • Size charts : Missy size chart ; Sample size ; Petite size chart ; Tall size chart ; Women's or plus size chart ; Junior size chart ; Women's panty size chart ; Men's size chart ; Children's: girls' and boys' size charts ; Size charts for hats ; Size charts for socks corresponding to shoe size
  • Grading : Purposed of grading ; Technical design aspects of grading
  • 16. Fit and fitting : The importance of fit
  • Elements of fit : Ease ; Balance ; Set ; Sleeve ; Shirts ; Pants
  • Actual fitting : Conducting a fit session ; Choosing a fit model ; Prior to fit: preparation for fitting ; The fitting room ; At the first proto fitting ; at the second fitting ; Preproduction review ; Reviewing details: a case study
  • Appendix A. Standards for seams and stitches
  • Appendix B. XYZ Product Development, Inc. selected technical packages
  • Appendix C. Thumbnail clip art
  • Glossary.