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Surf science : an introduction to waves for surfing /

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Bibliographic Details
Main Author: Butt, Tony (Author)
Format: Book
Language:English
Published: Honolulu : University of Hawaiʻi Press, [2014]
Edition:Third edition.
Subjects:
Ocean waves.
Wave-motion, Theory of.
Surfing.
Table of Contents:
  • Large-scale air movements
  • Formation of a depression
  • Growth of waves on the ocean
  • Propagation of free-travelling swell
  • Waves in shallow water
  • Wave-breaking
  • The temperature of the water
  • Local winds on the coast
  • The tides
  • Rips
  • Forecasting 1: the basics
  • Forecasting 2: inside the black box
  • Forecasting 3: surfing in the storm.